Rasmus Rasmussen dot com

Confessions of a Photographer…


I’m a Magazineer

Let me start by apologizing for the recent lack of updates here. Most of my blogging about photography has been on the zoom-in blog, but more importantly, I have been working on getting the second draft of my novel finished, podcasting, music and a whole slew of projects (including making a board game). So, yeah, that sort of took focus away for a while.

And still, I go and get involved in even more things. Latest on the list is Magazineer, a website for people who love magazines. I do. Which is why I jumped at the chance, when asked if I was interested. And now, my debut as a magazine-reviewer is live! I review Light Leaks, issue 8.

5 Sessions to Get Started on Microstock

Cityscape with room for copy…Building a portfolio of stock photography is a daunting task. Many new photographers ask where to begin, so here is a short list of photo sessions you can use. I have tried to keep them generic enough, that you have room to interpret each one in your own way.

When shooting these, try to get 200 shots done for every session. In the previous article, I mentioned a 1:10 ratio, meaning that you should only upload about one in ten shots to your portfolio, in order to keep it varied enough. I also said that new photographers should expect around half of those images to be accepted. So, if you shoot all five sessions described here and upload according to this, the average beginner would come out with about 50 pictures in their portfolio. A good start for anyone.

Each session should take no more than one day to shoot and sort, and another day or two for processing and uploading. By days, I don’t mean full work days, but something you could fit in to a normal schedule without having to quit your day job. A good goal is to aim for one complete session a week, which should leave you enough time to prepare and have a social life at the same time.

Session 1: The Photosafari

Description: The idea is to go somewhere and walk around with your camera out, ready to shoot whatever you happen to spot. You can use your own neighborhood or somewhere else, but it’s important that you travel on foot during the actual shooting.

Good shots: Textures, landscapes and architecture. You might be able to get some good abstract shots as well.

Pitfalls: When on photosafari, it’s very easy to start firing off snapshots. Try to avoid this by thinking about each shot. Lighting is all important as well here, and you will be dependent on the weather a lot.

Gear: Good walking shoes. You might also want to bring a tripod, if you’re planning on shooting sunsets or dimly lit areas.

Session 2: Seasonal Still Life

Description: Pick your favorite season and gather about 10 or so props to go with it. Set up a nice background and set up a number of different shots, shuffling your props around as you go. Try not to use more than 4-5 props at a time, to avoid cluttering your photos. As an example, you could pick Valentine’s Day and use props like: Chocolate, flowers, heart-shaped giftboxes, jewelry, cards (watch for copyrighted artwork on those) and whatever else you can think of.

Good shots: Shallow depth of field, rich lighting and saturated colors. Paintinglike compositions.

Pitfalls: Clutter from too many props or in the background. Keep it simple. Not mixing it up enough, ending up with too many too similar shots. Experiment and play around instead of trying to play it safe.

Gear: Diffused lighting is your friend here. Bathe your subject in warm sunlight, if you don’t have access to hotlights. A bounce might help eliminate harsh shadows.

Session 3: The Self Portrait

Description: Shooting yourself is not as easy as it sounds. As an exercise, it will help you understand what it takes to direct models a little better, as you start to see the difference between looking through the viewfinder and guessing what it might look like in the shot. Dress yourself up or not, that doesn’t matter. Keep the background simple, so focus will be on you and nothing else.

Good shots: Expressive photos. Make lots of faces and strike just as many funky poses. You might want to change clothes a couple of times, wear a hat, sunglasses and whatever other personal accessories you can think of.

Pitfalls: Getting lots of out-of-focus pictures from moving around. You might want to experiement with setting your focus point, using manual focus and check your camera every few shots until you’ve gotten the hang of it.

Gear: A tripod is almost a must for this one. A remote trigger is another great accessory, though most cameras have a time release function.

Session 4: Everyday Situations

Description: Grab a friend, a family member or your significant other and have that person pose for you. Use your home (or your friend’s) as a backdrop and take picture of him or her doing everyday things, from folding laundry to talking on the phone.

Good shots: Pictures that show both hands doing something as well as the model’s face. Expressions that go with the shot, like excitement in a shot of someone playing a console game or disgust when cleaning a toilet.

Pitfalls: Long shutterspeeds give unwanted blur, watch for present logos and make sure the background goes with whatever the subject is.

Gear: Strobes and speedlights are great for this. You might also use a bounce.

Session 5: The Work Situation

Description: As before, but this time you go to your model’s workplace (or somewhere that looks like a job location) and shoot photos of your model in action. There is a huge market for work-related shots, so it doesn’t matter much if your model is posing as a baker or a lawyer.

Good shots: Whatever shows the various tasks involved with the job, you’re photographing. Include relevant props and shoot both posed and candid pictures.

Pitfalls: Make sure you get permission, before shooting at an actual workplace. Also, watch for logos.

Gear: A speedlight might come in handy here, if you’re in a place that has bad light.

All of these are meant to be exercises as well as sessions, making your work with various types of photography. You don’t need to use the gear I have listed for each session, though doing so might help you get a better overall result. But if you don’t have the things listed, don’t let that stop you from shooting. The important thing is getting the work done with the concept of stock in mind. Think about the lighting, the composition and try to make your shots as good as possible from a stock point of view.

Doing these exercises with a friend might be helpful to you as well. Not only can you act as assistants to each other, holding bounces, positioning props and swapping suggestions, but simply having some creative company will help spark inspiration and make you have more fun. You might even sit down afterwards and help each other sort through your pictures. If you have a hard time choosing the best pictures from each session, perhaps a friend can help you decide.

This post is part 12 in a series about my experiences with stock photography, tips and pointers, meant to offer a little inspiration to those interested in such things. Next up: A closer look at shooting stock photos with no models in it; landscapes, still life and architecture. For a complete and chronological list of articles and a lovely donation-button, check out the Microstock Photographer’s Guide.

The Microstock Photographer in You

From my first shoot with multiple models.If you’re thinking about going into stock photography, you probably have a lot of questions. Am I good enough? What does it take to sell my photos? Will I be able to compete with the thousands of other photographers out there? The good news is that with microstock, there is room for you to learn as you go. Most succesful microstock photographers started out with other careers, drawn into stock by a mix of curiosity and wanting to play around with their new digital camera.

Traditional photographers work their way up slowly through the business. They have years of training, from color theory and darkroom technique to knowledge about directing models and such mind boggling things as copyright law. If that is who you are comparing yourself to, it’s no wonder you have your doubts. However, the microstock community is much different from that of the traditional, professional photographers. In fact, many old-school pros frown upon the whole microstock idea. They say it’s undermining their business, which I personally see as a huge compliment to all of us ”semi-pros” out there. If they feel threatened, we must be doing something right. There are advantages of going the traditional route (knowing your color theory is not a bad idea), but it is certainly not the only route available, and becoming a microstock photographer means, that you can start doing commercial and earning work from day one.

Like I have already said, I had practically no experience with any kind of photography, when I first started uploading my images to iStockphoto, but I did it anyway, inspired by what I saw other photographers doing. By that, I don’t mean that I started out copying others (copying others is a very bad idea, because it will give you a bad reputation and possibly a whole lot of other problems), but I saw other people shoot things that made me think: I can take pictures at least as well some of these guys!

If at First You Don’t Succeed

There is a lot of trial and error involved, when you first start out, and a lot of my own first shots were not even half as good, as I had imagined they would be. Some of them got rejected when I tried submitting them to iStock, which I tought was extremely frustrating at the time. In the end however, it was from the rejections, I learned the most. Chessplayers say that you learn more from the games you lose, than the ones you win, and so it is with stock photography. The key is to remember that rejections are not personal. They are pointers to actual problems, some of which can be fixed with post-processing. Other times, you have to settle for learning from your mistake and avoid repeating it next time.

As an inspector, I have rejected thousands of images. It’s not fun to do. I would love nothing better than to get only brilliant images, that I could approve without thinking twice. But like any business, iStockphoto has quality standards, which I must observe and go by, when looking at other people’s pictures. Later on, I will go into more detail about some of the pitfalls and common mistakes, and give some tips on how to avoid them. In the meantime, I would suggest checking out the ever-growing library of articles on iStock. They are full of good advice.

Who is Behind the Camera?

The iStock-photographers I know personally, have all sorts of professional backgrounds. Some were designers, originally coming to the site to purchase images. I know a couple of freelance journalists/copywriters, who tried shooting stock out of curiosity and found a new calling. My better half has a background in the printing industry and started shooting food, because she once plated a dish so nicely, her guests told her to photograph it before it was devoured. Now she is a full-time food photographer and stylist. Finally, I know an endless amount of hobby photographers, who got into stock because they saw it as a great way to play with their new gear and make it pay for itself.

Perhaps this diversity in background combined with genuine interest is the very reason, the microstock community is so strong. It is always easy to get critique, inspiration and help from fellow shooters. All over the world photographers have started meeting up and doing photosessions, using each other as models, assistants and partners. Some are signing up for classes together, or renting professional studios for a day and taking it all much further, than they could have done on their own.

iStockphoto supports this culture by organizing so-called iStockalypses. These are huge social events and workshops combined, complete with models, props and afterparties. People network, learn and have tons of fun. It was at an iStockalypse in Seattle, that I met my better half, so naturally, I highly recommend these events.

The point of all this is, that the microstock world is very different from the traditional photography business. Not only in the way the business is conducted and the low prices per image, but also very much in the way the microstock world is a community. I have referred to the shooters as semi-professionals, which doesn’t mean that the work is half-assed (in truth the available images are all over the place, but in some cases very much on par with the work of world class commercial photographers). The reference is in regard to the place in business these photographers have, right between the non-commercial hobbyists and the full-time pros. Indeed, some stock photographers are full-time as well, but most of us do it for fun and pocketmoney, and once you sell your first image, you’ll discover just how addicting it can be. You will find yourself strangely excited about earning a quarter here and there, probably getting a few raised-eyebrow reactions from friends and family, as you babble on about the three bucks, you made yesterday. But trust me when I say that it does add up, and when you cash that first hundred dollar check, your friends will start asking how they too can sign up.

So, to answer the questions posed at the beginning of this post. Are you good enough? Well, if you pass the iStockphoto photographer’s application, the answer is yes. You may not be Dave LaChapelle, but you don’t have to be.

What does it take to sell? Tenacity and a willingness to learn. Don’t get discouraged by rejections, but learn from them and keep uploading new images. Soon you will see your work improve, your ratio of approved versus rejected images will improve with it, and finally, so will your sales.

Will you be able to compete? The thing is, that it’s not really a competition. The more photographers shooting good images, the more buyers will come looking for them. Instead of making a name for yourself on your own, your work will be part of an enormous collection, where your stuff is displayed side by side with everyone else’s. My advice would be to focus solely on making your stuff as imaginative, useful and technically good as you possibly can, because as soon as your images appear in buyers’s search results, there’s no telling which shots will best fit what they’re looking for.

This post is part 2 in a series about my experiences with stock photography, tips and pointers, meant to offer a little inspiration to those interested in such things. The next episode will be about who the buyers are and what the images are used for. For a complete and chronological list of articles, check out the Microstock Photographer’s Guide.

Top 10 Tips : Starting and Finishing the 1st Draft

10 Tips to finishing the 1st draftWith this year’s Nanowrimo, I will be finishing the first draft of a novel for the fifth time. It’s a great feeling, to reach that last page and set down that last period. Whenever I’ve done that, I always sit and stare blankly at the screen for a while. In slight disbelief that I did it. That it’s over.

However, getting there is no picnic. Writing is hard work, of that there should be no doubt. On top of the many hours of manually plugging away, possibly wearing out your keyboard in the process, there’s the planning and plotting, the doubt about what you’re doing, the research. And afterwards, there’s the editing.

But like the artist starts with a sketch, so does the writer. I thought, I would share my top ten tips to getting that first draft done, based on my own experiences as well as what I’ve read and heard from other writers.

01 : Hatch the plot

First thing you’ll need is a story to tell. Chances are, that you already have an idea, but that you’re unsure whether or not it’s good enough to last the entire length of a novel. My advice would be to apply the good old what-if technique here. Jot down your basic idea, then examine it by supposing that characters and circumstances were different than you thought. Explore how many different directions your plot could go in. Soon more and more ideas, twists and sub-plots will present themselves. That’s when you know, you’ve got a writeable story.

02 : Understand your characters

Take your main characters and write up profiles for them. Short one-page bios about their backgrounds, their passions and dreams, their most embarrassing moments and regrets. Having this kind of information in advance will prove a goldmine later, when your characters are put into the action, and you need to figure out how they react. Don’t do it for every character. Pick the five or six most important ones. You can always write up extra bios later, if new and important characters present themselves.

03 : It begins with the end

J. K. Rowling of Harry Potter fame, has long said that she wrote the final chapter of the seven book saga a long time ago. This is a great idea, becuase it will give you a distinct goal to write towards. If you don’t want to actually write a chapter (personally, I think my stories flow better if I don’t write them in fragments), you should at least make a few notes on, how you want it all to end. Where will all your main characters be, when it’s all over?

04 : Write out scene-cards

Try to identify what the main turning points in your story will be and write them down on index cards. Include a brief (2-3 lines) description of the scene along with a location and the names of characters present, if applicable. Don’t bother trying to get every scene onto a card. The idea is that when you’re actually writing, you’ll start with the opening scene, while having the card next to you as you write. When that scene is over, flip to the next card and write whatever you need to write, to get your characters to where that scene begins. There may be lots of scenes in between, but you’ll still know where you’re going, and it will give you a sense of accomplishment, every time you get to move on to the next card in the stack.

10 Tips to finishing the 1st draft05 : Don’t forget that this is a draft

Throughout the writing process, you have to remember that a first draft is just that. A draft. Your main concern should be to tell your story, plain and simple. Try not to be overly concerned about the more technical aspects of writing, such as dialogue or description, and concentrate on the flow of events instead. Make sure your characters act like themselves and that the story progresses and eventually comes to its conclusion. And leave the details for the editing process. Practically no novels are written in one draft, but rather through many revisions and editing sessions. Don’t expect that your first draft will be any different.

06 : Find your writing space

Some prefer to write in the comfort of their home, some like to stay after hours at the office. I like to write in coffee shops. When deciding where to write, consider the following: Will you be able to relax there? Will you be able to concentrate? What I like about coffee shops is, that I have a clean table to start off with, I have someone to supply me with a steady stream of caffeine and I often use the other people in there as inspiration - when in need of a quick description for a character in your book, look at the person sitting next to you.

07 : Get rid of distractions

Clear your desk of unopened mail, disable your internet when you write and make sure you had something to eat (but not too much). If you go out to write, leave your cellphone at home. If you stay at home, close the door and tell your room mate to stay out. When you write, eventually your mind will tell you, that this is hard and that other things might be more fun. I’ve found that putting yourself in a position, where distracting yourself requires an effort, you’ll end up getting more writing done.

08 : Set daily goals and stick to them

Even if you don’t write every day, on the days when you do write, you should set yourself a goal. Promise yourself to write for exactly two hours or that you’ll write 2000 words that day. Don’t set it too high, or you’ll end up not making it. The whole point is, that it will serve a victory for you, when you get to the finish line. I used to say, that I’d write as much as I could, in the time it would take me to finish a tall latte, then take a ten minute break and do it all over again. But I’m a slow drinker, so that model might not work for you. It’s all about driving yourself forward. Not writing is the writer’s worst enemy.

09 : Never stop at the end of a chapter

I’m not talking about when you’re getting ready to finish the entire novel here, but rather the individual writing sessions. If you leave off in the middle of something, you’ll be wanting to get back to it and finish the scene you were writing on. Starting at the beginning of a new chapter or scene, requires more effort and will feel like a cold start every time. If you’re afraid to forget that brilliant surprise at the end of the scene you were writing, chances are that you’ll find time to write again sooner, than you might otherwise do.

10 : Keep it to yourself as you go

As soon as people hear that you’re writing a book, the first question will be: What’s it about? My advice is: Don’t tell them. There are two reasons for this. First of all, there’s a tendency, that once you’ve verbalized your plot enough times, you’ll eventually start feeling, like you’ve already told the story, and it will be a lot harder to do the manual work of actually writing it. The second reason is, that you now know that there are people out there, who are curious about your writing. That’s fantastic motivation for getting it done, so they can finally read it.